The Unanswered Question

We live on the edge. Washed up on an ancient shore. Defined by our geography. Most of the time we look towards the sea, faces to the warm breath blown from Africa but behind the mountains hang over us like an unanswered question. I have always known that the question would have to be answered and today saw us heading north into the mountains of the Cevennes.

The road up to St Pons de Thomières is familiar, the garrigues covered slopes of the ‘avant monts’. The vines die out not far above St Chinian, the sure sign that the Continental climate has won out over the Mediterranean one we enjoy. In late June it’s kind enough, the skies a uniform blue but above St Pons the air is fresher. We headed north west towards Anglès, climbing all the while. The hills remain wooded but the forest is older, birch, chestnut and pine. There is commercial forestry here, impossibly laden wagons navigated down the narrow roads with amazing skill. When we left St Chinian the temperature was low 30’s, up in the shade of the forest it was a blissfully cool 25. 

Before Anglès the road levels out into a rolling plateau, lush green meadows and livestock replace the vines and the diminutive tractors of the Vignerons have grown large again. The individual elements of this landscape are familiar; meadows, trees, hills, sky but the scale and emptiness is not. This is an incredibly beautiful natural park on a lovely June day and it felt as if we had it to ourselves.

After Anglès we headed over to the Lac de la Raviege on the L’Agout following its shoreline across to La Salvetat sur l’Agout. We got tantalising glimpses of the lake through the tree line but were unable to stop. Definitely deserving of more investigation. We went to La Salvetat in search of food but found only coffee. Many shops and businesses remain shut underlining our impression of the area as an undiscovered gem.

Hunger eventually drove us back down towards Olargues along the D14. What a road this is, green and bucolic at the beginning it becomes wilder and sparsely wooded as it drops down to the valley of the Orb. This a road that makes the legs ache and the heart sing even in a car. And then suddenly we were back on familiar territory. We set out in search of answers but I feel my curiosity has only been piqued further. It is a good feeling. I think the answers I seek will only be found on two wheels not four.